SKINEDIT - Debunking the Hydrafacial Hype

You’ve heard about the HydraFacial. People have asked if we offer it at La Faccia Bella. Here’s the breakdown of what it is, what it does and why I choose not to offer it.

HydraFacial is the brand name for a device from Edge Systems, LLC. It combines 2 aesthetic standard treatments: dermabrasion and a very, very light chemical peel. While it does add a new twist to dermabrasion, it is essentially just an exfoliating treatment with the option of adding a very light peel… and a LOT of expensive marketing.

Dermabrasion has taken many forms through the years, both as professional and at-home treatments, and new versions have often gained serious momentum as the newest fad in anti-aging. We have seen everything from dermabrasion with a soft brush, a rough loofah-like sponge (the “Buff-Puff”), a grainy over-the-counter scrub with ground-up apricot pits (St. Ives Apricot Scrub – don’t use!), expensive automatic rotating brushes (Mia, Clarisonic, etc) and more. Professional, in-office treatments have taken the form of microdermabrasion; using a rotating tip or tiny crystals and suction to remove dead cells. (La Faccia Bella is proud to offer our clients the MegaPeel EX Crystal Microdermabrasion).

The Hydrafacial company has come up with the latest twist on microdermabrasion, and they call it “Hydradermabrasion”, or “Vortex technology”. What previous technology does with crystals, Hydrafacial does with jets of water and suction. The machine shoots jets of water at the skin and vacuums it back off into a reservoir. Does water do a better job at exfoliating than a brush, sponge, or microcrystals? No, although it is certainly more expensive.

If a peel is to be included, it will follow the exfoliation/suction process. A different tip is placed on the machine and very light, generic chemical peel solution is applied to the face, then immediately removed. 

The next steps are upgrades, called “boosters”. Clients are encouraged to add these boosters, at an additional charge, to “customize” their experience. The boosters address specific issues such as fine lines and wrinkles, discoloration or brown spots, aging skin and uneven skin tone. Clients are then encouraged to purchase serums to be used at home (another upcharge) to continue to treat their specific concerns at home.

To sum it all up: Hydrafacial is just a facial. It is the latest form of dermabrasion (and, if you are willing to pay for add-ons a very, very light peel).

Depending on location, a Hydrafacial usually starts at $300 for the basic process, and add-ons (boosters) and take-home products are additional charges. BUYER BEWARE: Because of the massive popularity of the treatment and the abundance of Hydrafacial devices in many areas, many providers have started offering the treatment at a lower cost than their competitors, but are no longer including the peel. Many providers have made the peel another additional upcharge. Without the peel, all you are getting is a very expensive dermabrasion treatment. 

Because the Hydrafacial company (Edge Systems) has put a lot of money into marketing, the brand name has gotten a lot of media attention. They have spent millions (if not billions) on advertising with social media influencers. This kind of marketing is expensive, so the machine is very expensive to purchase and that cost is passed on to the consumer.

In addition, to work with the machine, the optional peels and serums (added on for an upcharge) that can be administered during a treatment must be purchased through the Hydrafacial company. The prices and options are fixed based on whatever skin care company Hydrafacial is contracting with at the time. This means that the provider’s choice of “correctives” (serums) are not only very limited and unreliable, but they will also drive the price of treatment even higher.

It is a popular Instagram practice to post pictures of your dirty water after a Hydrafacial. People love to think that all of the “gunk” came directly out of their pores, however, if you start your treatment with any lotions, creams, sunscreen or make-up on your face, those will all end up in the reservoir. Even if you start out with a freshly cleansed face, the products used during the service will be sucked into the reservoir, giving it a dirty appearance. Unfortunately, the suction of the machine does not pull debris from your pores. The improvements you see in your skin are from increased blood flow (from the suction).

Representatives of the Edge company describe the device as a “medical-grade” hydradermabrasion device that carries out a patented three-part regimen-cleansing, exfoliating and infusing with intensive serums”.

First, there is absolutely nothing “medical” about the device. Anybody can purchase the machine or perform the treatments. No medical education, advanced training or license is needed so any spa or salon can offer it.

Second, just because the company patented their device and regimen doesn’t mean it is better, or even that it works. There are many ways to cleanse and exfoliate the skin. Does water do a better job at exfoliating than a brush, sponge, or microcrystals? No, although it is certainly more expensive. Does suction perform “extractions” (remove blackheads and blemishes)? Again, no.

Third, simply applying serums onto the skin after performing a peel will cause those serums to delve deeper into the skin than they would without having done a peel. It is not the application process (the Hydrafacial machine) that is causing the serums to penetrate more deeply into the skin, it is the fact that they are being put on the skin immediately after a peel!

Hydrafacial is a basic treatment, but it is JUST an exfoliating treatment with or without a very mild peel, with a few hundred dollars tacked on to pay for the brand name. Regular peels will cause tremendous improvements in your skin over time, especially if you do them regularly. Regular Hydrafacial treatments won’t harm your skin and provide a basic facial; however, you can do much better for much less.

At La Faccia Bella I have chosen not to offer Hydrafacials for several reasons. The main reason is that I feel that the HydraFacial is a brilliantly-marketed but overpriced facial. I can do much better for you at a much lower cost. La Faccia Bella features medical-grade peels (with or without microdermabrasion), which can be customized based on your specific needs. Clients at LFB are getting the best treatments for their individual needs, with excellent professional and medical grade products from Bioline Jato and PCA Skin, without having to over-pay for marketing and a brand name.

Resources: Edge Systems, LLC; Dr. Laura Riehm